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An island that once had 170 windmills, Antigua's history as a sugar-producer looms large in its legend. Everywhere you look on Antigua there are remnants of the old plantation days, plainly visible by the crumbling windmills that dot the landscape.
At the same time, the island's distinctive coastline has created 365 beaches resulting in an island trademark of "a beach for every day of the year." This locale created numerous opportunities for bars, restaurants, swimming holes and snorkeling sites around the island. The many coves and harbours have made Antigua a prime sailing destination and home of the world-famous Antigua Race Week. All of these activities can be explored when touring the island, a fun thing to do especially by rental car, since there are so many places to stop and beaches to experience.
It would be difficult to see Antigua in one day, and since it's not close to many other islands, Antigua is not really a day-trip destination. Three days is probably the minimum amount of time to really see the island.
Day One: St. John's
St. John's is a bustling town, capital of Antigua and the mercantile center of the island. It is now used for many business dealings by folks from neighboring Montserrat. A tour of this city could easily begin at the Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Divine, which dominates the center of town. This huge church with twin spires sits on a hill. Not far away is the Museum of Antigua and Barbuda, which offers wonderful displays about the history of the islands, a large archive and a library. A unique service offered by this museum allows people (by phone, email, letter or in person) to research possible genealogical connections to the island. Many of the island's records are now computerized and it's possible to easily check to see if you're related to anyone here. From the museum, head toward the water to the new shopping center called Heritage Quay, where the cruise ships dock (Thursday and Friday) and passengers shop. A large variety of duty-free shops are here including jewelry stores, designer clothing and miscellaneous gift items.
Downtown offers more quaint shopping at historic Redcliffe Quay. Old stone and brick warehouses have been restored as upscale shops and eateries, definitely not to be missed. Along the adjacent streets of Nevis and Redcliffe, there are many delightful multi-colored West Indian buildings with gingerbread trim, so typical of this part of the world.
Day 2: Eastern Antigua
Probably the most interesting part of Antigua is the eastern side, where English Harbour (including Nelson's Dockyard) is located. Old, yet well preserved, these attractions are fun to visit for a few hours or a week or more, if you stay in one of the several old inns such as Admiral's Inn or the Copper and Lumber Yard Hotel right on the Dockyard grounds. The English Harbour area is part of the Antigua National Parks Authority, developed in the 1700's as an English Naval Yard. Well protected, the harbor has been a safe haven for boats from hurricanes for decades. British Naval Captain, Horatio Nelson at the age of 26, commanded the northern division stationed there from 1784 to 1787.
This delightful old town has been developed into a great attraction with many interpretive signs describing the history; two inns, Admiral's Inn and the Copper and Lumber Store; and the Dockyard Bakery (pastries, cake, patties and drinks). Don't miss the Admiral's House Museum where the history of the area is clearly described. If you're lucky, you'll catch our beloved historian, Desmond Nicholson, hard at work. The harbor is always filled with yachts and brimming with old salts enjoying the local pubs and eateries. Near English Harbour sits Shirley Heights. Aside from being a great social gathering spot, it offers plenty of history as well.
While touring in the area, another essential stop is Betty's Hope, the twin windmills, one of which actually works. These stunning mills, restored and well-documented so visitors can understand how they worked, are more than 300 years old. This was, reportedly, the island's first sugar plantation. Also in the eastern area is the wonderful early town of Parham, the first British settlement where the Peter's Anglican Church is located. It is considered to be one of the most important churches in the Caribbean because of its octagonal shape and Georgian _style_.
Day 3: Western Antigua
Leaving St. John's and heading south, there are several beautiful beaches and some interesting areas to explore. As you head toward the sea south from town, the first thing to see is Five Islands Village, which has been greatly developed for tourism. Most interesting there is the Hawksbill Beach Resort, so named because of a rock offshore that resembles the head of a hawk. Moving south, there are many bays. The road turns north near the historic Curtain Bluff Hotel, located on a stunning precipice. From Fig Tree Drive, head north through the rain forest. The fig in the name means "banana" in these parts, but the forest is rich with mangoes and pineapples as well. The road winds through the highest part of the island and though it's only 1,300 feet, it offers a mountainous rain forest environment. Near the end of this road is the Tyrell's Catholic church, a well-known, pink stucco church called Our Lady of Perpetual Help.
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