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Haiti is a poverty-stricken land of urban overpopulation, denuded hillsides and a people suffering the wounds of civil strife and oppression. It is also a vibrant country of colourful art, fantastic music, cloud forests and an intensely spiritual people whose humour and passion are legendary.
A Country in Turmoil
The presence of a UN stabilisation force is intended to strengthen Haiti's longterm security. However, the security situation is volatile and Haiti remains an unsafe place to visit.
Kidnappers and well-armed street gangs operate with impunity in the capital, Port-au-Prince. Targets of kidnapping for ransom include wealthy Haitians as well as foreign aid workers and even diplomats.
When To Go
Haiti has two rainy seasons, from April to May and from September to October, with most rain falling in the mountains. If you plan to do much hiking, trekking or even driving, these might be months to avoid. The June-to-September hurricane season might be worth missing as well; though the chances of one blowing through are miniscule, remember that one little hurricane can wreck your whole holiday. The temperature is fairly constant year-round, with highs averaging around 34°C (95°F) in the summer and 30°C (85°F) in the winter. There isn't currently a peak tourist season, making Haiti an ideal destination during the Northern Hemisphere's winter, when most Caribbean isles are packed with snowbirds slurping umbrella-laden beverages and raising the prices of food, accommodations and everything else.
It's worth planning a visit to Haiti around Carnival (the three days leading up to Ash Wednesday) or Rara (the week leading up to Easter), when music and dancing seem to erupt spontaneously. Avoid the weeks leading up to an election, including the presidential election in December 2000, when less pleasant but equally spontaneous eruptions of passion tend to make their mark.
Haiti has one international airport, officially called Toussaint Louverture International, but better known as Port-au-Prince International Airport, particularly when booking tickets from abroad. It shares its runway with the domestic Guy Malary Airport. Cap-Haïtien has the second-largest airport, but it serves only a few international flights. There is a departure tax when leaving Haiti by air. The price is not included in the price of your ticket. When you leave Haiti, you must have your passport and the yellow entry card you received upon arrival.
There are two primary points where you can cross between Haiti and the Dominican Republic. The crossing between Ouanaminthe and Dajabón in the north is convenient between Santiago and Cap-Haïtien, while the Malpasse/Jimaní crossing in the south _link_s Santo Domingo to Port-au-Prince. A crossing in the centre of the island, between Beladere and Elías Piña, is difficult to reach using public transportation. If you're leaving by land, the departure tax is less.
There are two flights a day between Port-au-Prince and Cap-Haïtien on Caribintair that will save you an arduous eight-hour drive. There are also regular flights from Port-au-Prince to Hinche, Pignon and Dame Marie.
The cheapest way to get around Haiti is by bus, with fares ranging from 1.00 to 7.00, depending on the distance travelled. There are no ti_meta_bles; buses leave the town's specific departure point (Port-au-Prince and Cap-Haïtien have several) when they are full. The buses, generally either old US school buses or ornately decorated tap-taps, can go places where you wouldn't drive a 4x4 back home.
Driving in Haiti is an adventure on a good day: the roads are notoriously potholed, many private cars are in disrepair (read: don't count on brake lights or turn signals) and winding mountain roads are alive with speeding Bluebird schoolbuses on a mission. If you are willing to rise to the challenge (and drive on the right side of the road), however, you can rent a car for around 60.00, plus insurance, from several agencies at the Port-au-Prince airport. There are other car rental places in large towns throughout Haiti.
Port-au-Prince has a brilliant system of collective taxis called publiques, which charge 10 gourdes a trip. They could be almost any vehicle, but all have a red ribbon hanging from the front mirror. A sharp pssst! usually stops them, and the driver decides if he or she wants to take you. Don't expect the most direct route to your destination, as others in the car need to be catered to as well.
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