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Gingerbread trim and a view of the harbour are about all Port-au-Prince has in common with other Caribbean capitals. It's crammed with people soldiering on amidst rundown buildings, open sewers, brightly coloured murals and taptaps, public buses emblazoned with fine art and Creole sayings.
Much of the activity is centred on the Marché de Fer (the Iron Market), a 19th-century iron and tin mix of Parisian class and African _style_. It's chaos inside, packed with stalls, vendors and piles of fruit, baskets, soap, religious totems and toys. It's hot, noisy and overwhelming.
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